Walls and Bones

I went to check on the car. Still there, no ticket, no boot. Then I went to see the Roman temple above it.

 

I guess I've been spoiled by all the Roman ruins I've seen in my life (none as good as Baalbek in Lebanon), because I just felt meh about this temple. The columns were made of limestone, which just looked like concrete.

 

nice park next to the temple

 

nice views of the city from the park

 

The story is that the temple was built for the Roman goddess Diana (Artemis in Greek mythology, Neith in Egyptian), the patroness of the countryside and hunting. Makes sense that this town would have worshiped Diana, given that Évora is the center of an agricultural region.

Except the temple was never built to worship Diana. It's just something some Portuguese priest made up in the 17th century. From the 14th century to 1836 the temple wasn't even used as a temple  - it was used as a butcher shop. It was probably originally built in the first century to honor Caesar Augustus, who was considered a god by the Roman imperial cult that was formed when Rome threw away its democracy and established authoritarian rule. His predecessor, Julius, had been assassinated to save the Republic. Alas, the Republic was doomed anyway. Just like ours is now.

I like the idea of the temple being built for a woman who would sic her dogs on men if they wronged her better than honoring a guy who destroyed democracy for his own ego.

There is an element of trinity to Diana, as she is also associated with the moon/stars (Luna) and the underworld (Hecate), making her part of the recurring theme of trinity across so many of the world's current and historic religions - the moon/stars representing creation (the Father in Christianity, Brahma in Hindu, for example), the Earth representing maintenance (the Son in Christianity, Vishnu in Hindu, etc.), and the underworld being destruction/death (the Holy Spirit in Christianity, Siva in Hindu, etc.) All people fall under one of these categories. Few are creators; most are destroyers.

The temple is located by the Cathedral and the Palace of the Inquisitor, buildings with sinister histories as the Portuguese carried out their own inquisitions that murdered thousands of Jews and Muslims. The Roman imperial cult had transitioned to a Christian cult under Constantine a thousand years before; that cult would go on to murder millions throughout history. Now Jews in America are seeing the same antisemitism from so-called Christians that led to such inquisitions in the past. Ohio just elected an antisemite as a senator.

I'm so damn tired of history repeating.

The cathedral was unimpressive. Perhaps I've also seen too many churches in my life to be impressed anymore. Or maybe it's just the hypocrisy of it all. The Catholic Church is the richest corporation in the world, even with all the pedophile priest lawsuits. To see all these riches on full display while people starve and the world burns is not only a tragedy - it's immoral.

 

 

I more enjoyed the winding roads around the town.

 

 

We headed to the bone chapel next, which was far more appropriate decor for the Church than a monstrance of pure silver.

But first, lunch.

I ordered too much, of course. It's easy to do with small plates. 

an actual craft beer

Then, bone chapel, constructed of bones dug up from a cemetery to remind people of their end, no matter their lot in life. Remember, o man, that you are dust, and to dust you will return.

The chapel was started in the late 16th century by three Franciscan monks and was dedicated to the cult of the Souls of Purgatory. Europe, being old and all, has dug up cemeteries throughout history because towns ran out of space and needed the land. The continent has several of these types of chapels spread across it, including the famous catacombs of Rome and Paris. This ossuary is small compared to those.

 

mummy

The chapel was meant as a place for self reflection. In this age of selfies, participation trophies, social media influencers, identity politics, and disrespect for experts, I wonder if people are even capable of self reflection. We live in an age of ego, where everyone thinks they are special. Guess what?  No one is special. Everyone ends up like this. Dead. Skinless. So why do you care so much about skin color now? It decomposes and disappears forever. No religious fairy tale or cruel politician is going to save you from this fate.

The price of admission came with entrance to the church's museum as well, which was vaguely interesting, if only to make fun of the art, a favorite pastime of mine. A whole collection of some rich guy's creches from all over the world was on display. Some of them were trippy.

 

St. Francis of ASSissi

don't use drugs, kids

they used to dress up these statues

St. Agatha holding her cut off breast

what was the artist smoking?

There were some good views of the town from atop the complex.

 

 

We went into the actual church last. A bit ostentatious and said to be unique for its design. The whole thing is a mishmash of styles, but that can happen when you build a church in the 15th century and it stays a church for most of the centuries after that. 

Next we went into the old palace grounds, which is one large city park on top of the old city walls, a few ruins, and some peacocks.

 

 

baby peacock and mom

 

view of a roundabout with a billion streets running into it

Then it was back up the hill to the main square for dinner.

school theater group on the main square

 

I think we intended to take a nap but never got around to it. Instead, we went to see live music, which ended up not happening. We had misunderstood - it was the next night. Another good day in Portugal was concluded with sleep.

 

To be continued...